Strength with Purpose: The Secret to Smarter Sending
If you’re serious about improving your climbing—whether you're chasing V-grades in the gym or clipping chains on your next project—there's one thing the best climbers in the world have in common: smart, specific strength training.
At Nomadic Performance, we're here to help you train efficiently, avoid injuries, and crush your goals. We reviewed the latest research to bring you the best evidence-based insights on what really works for building climbing strength. Here’s what the science says.
🔬 1. Finger and Pulling Strength Are Non-Negotiable
A 2015 study published in JSCR tested which muscles limit climbing performance. Climbers performed routes after fatiguing specific muscle groups:
- Digit flexor (forearm) fatigue = 50% drop in performance
- Elbow flexor fatigue = 22% drop
- Shoulder and core fatigue = no significant effect
👉 Translation: Your grip and pulling power are the most important muscles to train. Everything else matters—but not nearly as much when it comes to getting up the wall.
⏱️ 2. Faster Fingers = Better Climbers
In elite climbers, rate of force development (RFD)—how fast you can create finger tension—is often more important than max strength. A 2019 study found:
- Just 4 weeks of fingerboard training (2x/week) improved RFD by 25–33%.
- Max force also increased slightly—but the speed of force application was the biggest win.
- Gains came from slope and half crimp grips—no full crimp needed (safer on pulleys).
👉 Actionable Tip: Short, focused finger training—especially with the goal of explosiveness, not just max hangs—can dramatically boost performance, especially in bouldering and dynamic routes.
📈 3. Strength Training = Performance Gains (Backed by 20+ Studies)
A 2022 systematic review concluded:
- Hangboarding is the most validated training method to improve climbing-specific strength and endurance.
- Max strength protocols (e.g. weighted hangs, low-rep pull-ups) significantly enhance pulling and grip force.
- Isometric training mimics climbing and improves grip endurance.
- Campus board and power work build explosive capabilities—but only for advanced climbers.
👉 Nomadic Takeaway: Strength training isn't a bonus—it's a cornerstone. Use a blend of fingerboard, pull-ups, and isometric work 2–3x/week in-season, 3–4x off-season.
🧠 4. Train What You Climb—And Vice Versa
A 2025 narrative review emphasized that the best training reflects the demands of bouldering and lead climbing:
- Bouldering: short bursts, high force, quick decision-making
- Lead climbing: forearm endurance, pacing, stress resilience
Top performers combine:
- Finger and pulling strength
- Core tension and technique
- Mental training, visualization, and simulated route previews
👉 Nomadic Strategy: Periodize your training based on your goals—power cycles for bouldering, endurance and route preview work for lead. And don’t neglect the mental game.
🧰 5. Build the Body to Support the Fingers
An article in Strength and Conditioning Journal outlined why a climber’s program should include:
- Core training: for tension and movement control on overhangs
- Lower body strength: for foot drive and reducing upper body load
- Antagonist training: wrist extensors, shoulders, and posterior chain to prevent injury
👉 Nomadic Plan: Your fingers and forearms do the climbing, but your whole body keeps you efficient and injury-free. Train holistically—just make it climbing-specific.
🔚 Final Thoughts: Train Smarter. Send Harder.
Climbing performance isn’t just about climbing more—it’s about targeted, intelligent training. The research is clear:
- ✅ Prioritize grip and pulling strength
- ✅ Add explosive finger training for power
- ✅ Use structured, progressive hangboard protocols
- ✅ Tailor strength work to the type of climbing you love
- ✅ Support your system with core, antagonist, and mental training
At Nomadic Performance, we bring the science to the send. Whether you’re training in a van, a home wall, or a pro facility, we’ve got the programs and resources to help you climb stronger—and smarter.