Climbing isn’t just about getting stronger—it’s about knowing where you stand and how to improve
The International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) recently developed a sport-specific performance test battery to help climbers, coaches, and researchers measure the key physical attributes that contribute to climbing success. Whether you’re an intermediate climber or aiming for elite levels, these tests can help you pinpoint your strengths and weaknesses.
Why Performance Testing Matters
Climbing requires a mix of strength, power, endurance, flexibility, and core stability. Unlike general fitness tests, the IRCRA test battery focuses on climbing-specific movements to evaluate these attributes accurately. This means the results are much more relevant to real-world climbing performance.
The 4 Key Climbing Tests
Out of the 10 tests evaluated, four stood out as the most reliable and valid indicators of climbing ability:
- Finger Hang Test: Measures finger and grip endurance—essential for sustained holds on difficult routes.
- Powerslap Test: Tests explosive power, mimicking the quick, dynamic moves in bouldering.
- 2-Arm Bent-Arm Hang: Assesses upper body endurance, critical for overhangs and steep walls.
- Pull-Ups Test: A classic test of climbing-specific upper body strength and control.
These tests successfully differentiate between lower-level and elite climbers, making them useful for tracking progress over time.
Key Findings
**Strength and power matter more than endless flexibility. While flexibility is important, the study found that past a certain point, extra flexibility didn’t differentiate top climbers from intermediates. **Finger endurance is king. The finger hang test was the single best predictor of climbing ability across all levels. **Core stability is important but harder to measure reliably. Future research is working to create better core-specific tests for climbers.
How You Can Use These Tests
**Track Your Progress: Test yourself every 8–12 weeks to see how your training is paying off. **Identify Weak Spots: Struggling with the powerslap? You might need to add more explosive drills to your training. **Tailor Your Training: Use results to design a balanced program that builds on your strengths and addresses your weaknesses.