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The Tiny Tendons Carrying Your Biggest Sends

Whether you're crimping tiny edges in the Wasatch or projecting steep boulders in Bishop, your fingers are your lifeline. As the gateway between you and the rock, they take on massive loads—and they’re also the most frequently injured body part in climbing.

At Nomadic Performance, we believe in training smarter, not just harder. Recent research sheds new light on how climbers can develop finger strength without increasing injury risk. Here’s what every climber should know before hanging on a fingerboard or stepping into the gym.

🚨 The Reality of Finger Injuries in Climbing

Finger pulley injuries (particularly to the A2 pulley) are the most common overuse injuries in climbers. These injuries often occur from high-force grips—especially the full crimp.

A study published in Wilderness & Environmental Medicine (2021) emphasizes that while most pulley injuries are treatable without surgery, they can derail progress for weeks or months.

The A2 pulley of the ring finger is most often injured, especially when using the crimp grip under fatigue or high volume.

Takeaway: Crimp with intention. Avoid overusing high-stress grips without adequate warm-up, especially during back-to-back climbing sessions.

📉 Are You at Risk? Injury Trends by Age & Gender

A national study of emergency department visits (Frontiers in Sports and Active Living, 2025) revealed:

Young climbers (18–34) had the highest injury rates.
Women experienced more lower extremity injuries—often from low-height indoor falls.
Men suffered more upper extremity injuries, especially to the fingers and shoulders, often from outdoor climbing or higher falls.

Takeaway: Regardless of age or gender, understanding the typical mechanisms of injury can help you train and fall smarter. Practicing controlled landings indoors and warming up your fingers before hard sessions can reduce risk.

💪 Does Fingerboard Training Help or Hurt?

The big question: Is regular fingerboard training safe?

A recent 2023 study surveyed 434 climbers and found:

Experienced climbers (6+ years) who trained regularly on fingerboards had fewer injuries.
Less experienced male climbers (<6 years) climbing 7a or harder and training on fingerboards had a significantly higher injury rate, especially boulderers.

The likely explanation? Tendons, ligaments, and pulleys need years of progressive loading to handle high-intensity stress. New climbers may ramp up too quickly, leading to overuse injuries before their tissue has time to adapt.

Takeaway: If you’re newer to climbing, build volume gradually and delay intensive fingerboard protocols. For seasoned climbers, fingerboard training can help maintain strength and resilience—if programmed thoughtfully.

🧠 Smart Training = Sustainable Performance

Here’s what you can do to minimize your injury risk while maximizing performance:

✅ Warm Up Intentionally: Start every session with general mobility + finger-specific warmups. One study recommends 100 progressive climbing moves before hard pulls.
✅ Use the H-Tape Method: Of all the taping methods tested, H-taping is the only one shown to improve grip strength and reduce tendon-to-bone distance during rehab.
✅ Prioritize Recovery: Recovery isn’t just rest. Incorporate de-load weeks, soft tissue care, and nutrition to support collagen and tendon health.
✅ Train Progressively: Don’t rush performance goals. Strong fingers are built over years, not weeks. Focus on gradual loading, proper form, and listening to your body.

💬 Final Thoughts from Nomadic Performance

As climbers, we thrive on challenge—but we also need to train with intention. Whether you’re just starting out or chasing your next project, understanding the science of injury prevention can keep you on the wall longer, stronger, and more sustainably.