Understanding Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs)
Rock climbing is one of the most demanding sports out there—physically, mentally, and metabolically. As climbing has exploded in popularity, especially since its Olympic debut in 2020, researchers have been looking closely at how nutrition and energy balance affect performance and long-term health. One critical topic that’s gaining attention in the climbing community is Relative Energy Deficiency in Sport (REDs). Simply put, REDs occurs when climbers don’t consume enough energy (calories) to match the amount they burn during training and daily life. Over time, this energy mismatch can impact performance, recovery, and overall health. .
What Is REDs?
Originally recognized as the “Female Athlete Triad,” REDs is now understood to affect both men and women. It occurs when low energy availability (LEA) disrupts essential body functions like hormone balance, bone health, immune system strength, and even mental focus. For climbers, this can mean:
- Decreased muscle strength and endurance.
- Increased risk of overuse injuries or stress fractures.
- Impaired recovery between climbing sessions.
- Mood changes, fatigue, and decreased motivation.
Why Climbers Are at Risk
Climbers often strive to maintain a lean body composition to maximize their strength-to-weight ratio. While this can enhance performance, overly strict diets or unintentional under-fueling can lead to LEA. Research shows that a surprising number of elite climbers fail to meet their daily energy needs, especially when training intensively.
Warning Signs of REDs
Some early signs include: Constant fatigue or lack of power during climbs. Frequent injuries or slower recovery times. Unexplained drops in performance. For female athletes: irregular or missing menstrual cycles. For male athletes: reduced libido or low motivation.
How to Prevent REDs
The good news is that with awareness and proactive strategies, REDs can be avoided. Here are some key steps:
1. **Track Your Intake**: Use a food diary or app to monitor your daily calorie intake. Aim to consume enough to match or exceed your energy expenditure.
2. **Prioritize Nutrient-Dense Foods**: Focus on whole foods that provide plenty of calories and nutrients, like nuts, seeds, avocados, whole grains, lean proteins, and dairy.
3. **Listen to Your Body**: If you’re feeling fatigued or underperforming, it may be a sign you need more fuel. Don’t ignore these cues.
4. **Consult a Professional**: A sports dietitian can help you create a personalized nutrition plan that supports your climbing goals without compromising health.
Why This Matters
Climbing is about longevity as much as it is about strength. By fueling your body properly, you’ll climb harder, recover faster, and prevent injuries that can sideline your progress. Education and awareness around REDs are key steps in building a healthier climbing community.