Nomadic Performance

Nomadic Performance

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Climbing Fitness Assessment

Countermovement Push-Up (CMPU)
What This Test Measures: Upper-extremity explosive power via stretch-shortening cycle (SSC) performance, including force-time qualities such as peak force, velocity, and power output.
Why It Matters: Helps assess upper limb neuromuscular explosiveness for athletes who rely on rapid force transfer and dynamic upper-body output.
How to Perform: From a plank position, lower rapidly under control, then immediately reverse into a maximal-effort explosive push (often with hand lift-off) to maximize vertical velocity.
20mm Edge Pull (Single-Arm)
What This Test Measures: Single-arm finger flexor and hanging strength capacity on a standardized edge.
Why It Matters: Single-arm edge-specific hanging strength is highly relevant to boulder problem difficulty, dynamic movement, and sustained grip output on single-limb intensive climbing.
How to Perform: Using a 20mm edge, perform a controlled single-arm hang or isometric effort under standardized setup and record best valid attempt (time or load).
Max Pull Ups or Max Hang Time
What This Test Measures: Relative pulling endurance and upper-body work capacity.
Why It Matters: Indicates the ability to sustain repeated pulling effort over long climbing bouts.
How to Perform: Choose either strict max pull-ups or max dead-hang time with standardized grip and strict criteria, then record best outcome.
Closed Kinetic Chain Upper Extremity Stability Test (CKCUEST)
What This Test Measures: Shoulder stability, strength, and endurance in a 15-second closed-chain upper-extremity task.
Why It Matters: Commonly used in return-to-sport testing (especially overhead athletes) to assess upper-limb neuromuscular control under fatigue.
How to Perform: In push-up/plank position (standard or modified as appropriate), place hands on tape marks 36 inches (91 cm) apart, then alternate opposite-hand taps for max touches in 15 seconds. Complete one warm-up, then three scored 15-second trials with 45-60 seconds rest; use average touches as score.
Adapted Grant Foot Raise
What This Test Measures: Lower-leg and foot strength-endurance relevant to edging and foothold control.
Why It Matters: Foot and calf durability are key for precision placement and prolonged route efficiency.
How to Perform: Complete controlled repeated raises under the adapted Grant protocol and record valid reps per side.
Ape Index
What This Test Measures: Wingspan-to-height relationship (anthropometric leverage profile).
Why It Matters: Can influence reach options, positioning strategies, and movement selection on the wall.
How to Perform: Measure height and arm span, then compute Ape Index as arm span minus height (or ratio).

Assessment Overview

Climbing Fitness Assessment combines six key tests to profile pushing power, edge-specific pulling strength, shoulder stability, foot endurance, and leverage characteristics.

Use this battery to set baselines, identify limiting factors, and guide targeted climbing performance development.

Ape Index Calculator

Calculate your ape index: Enter your height and arm span measurements to determine your wingspan-to-height ratio and see how it may influence your climbing reach and positioning.